BUILD
A Handsome, sturdy and affordable Log Cabin. The log cabin is still a
great choice if you want to build your
own home.
BY MICHAEL CHOTINER; Illustrations by Harry Schaare
Mankind's preference for living in
structures made of natural timbers is longstanding and well documented. One story from the rich folklore of log building tells how a Grand Master
of the Teutonic Knights insisted, around the year 1500, that a wood
structure be built onto his stone castle to provide a homier place to
live. Many log structures built in the same period still stand in
Scandinavia, Central Europe and the Balkans.
Each area developed its own distinct
methods, from the square hewn log homes of France to the dovetail-joined
cabins of Germany. But when all these influences were transplanted to the
New World, the Scandinavian style of round logs with bottom-cut corner
notches prevailed. Examples of this method can be seen across the United
States.
Log building has always required a lot of
patient, physically demanding work. And for the modem builder, it also
requires learning some new skills.
Here's a short course in log building to
show you what's involved.
Opinions about log selection and proper
cutting season vary with the individual craftsman and the building locale. In general, just about any type of log can be used, as long as it's
relatively straight, is around 8 to 10 in. in diameter and has only minor
tapering-no more than 2 in., in a 16-ft.-Iong log. Conifers such as pine,
fir, spruce and tamarack are preferred because these softwoods are
workable, durable and relatively lightweight. Hardwoods, particularly oak
can also be used, though their sapwood is highly susceptible to
infestation by borers and fungus.
Trees should be felled in early winter. The
cooler temperatures make for slower drying time, which reduces log
checking, cracking and splitting. It's also easier to haul logs out of the
forest over frozen terrain.
The best seasoning method is to air-dry the
logs for one to two years-the longer the better. Logs should be stacked
off the ground with stickers-smaller diameter logs-placed between the
courses. This allows for maximum airflow around the logs and promotes more
even drying. You should also partially peel off the bark using a draw
knife before the logs are stacked. This will increase their drying rate
and cause only minimal cracking and splitting. However, before building
begins, you must remove the remaining bark completely. It is a natural
habitat for many different kinds of pests.
Many pioneer cabins were built
without foundations because they were constructed in haste or meant to be
temporary shelter. But a proper foundation is definitely required. Stone
foundations are traditional, but block and concrete walls are as good, or
better, and they require less work.
If you don't want a full basement, you must
excavate at least below the frost line, install footings and construct a
wall up to 20 in. above grade level. You must also install piers within
the foundation walls to support the floor girder. Also, install anchor
bolts along the top of the walls to attach the sill. Begin floor
construction by hewing or cutting flat the bottom of the sill logs. Then
bore holes in the sill logs to accommodate the anchor bolts and install
sill sealer or a termite shield according to the local building code.
The corner joints are made by bottom
notching the logs as shown. Next, hew flat the top of the
girder and install it over the support piers. Join it to the sill with a
mortise and tenon joint. Drive 60d nails through the top of the tenon and
into the mortise to complete the joint.
In
a similar manner, hew or cut flat the top of the joists and install them
between the girder and sill logs so they are flush with the top of the
girder. Install the sub-flooring perpendicular to the direction of the
joists. Now you're ready to start on the walls.
Many different types of notches can be used
to join the logs, but a good choice for the beginning log builder is the
technique shown here: the scribe, fit, round-notch method. It features
semicircular notches cut in the bottom of the logs to fit over adjacent
logs. Also, a V-shaped groove is cut down the length of each log bottom so
the entire length can sit flush on the log below.
Although this method is slower than others,
the corner joints are self-draining. Water running down the outside of the
house hits the log tops and runs off, instead of being trapped in the
notch. The V-grooves also eliminate air drafts between the logs. The
joints between courses do not need chinking, so you can avoid one of the
most chronic maintenance problems of log homes: repairing cracked
chinking.
Cutting the corner notches is a five step
procedure.
1. First, roll the log into position and
sight along its length to make sure any crown is pointing to the outside
of the wall. Try not to use logs that have more than a 1-in. crown per 16
feet of length. Then secure the log with a log dog as shown in the
drawing.
2. Scribe the shape of the lower log onto
the uncut log using compass dividers with a pencil or marking crayon
inserted in one leg. Rough-cut the notch with a chain saw, then
finish it with a shallow sweep, long-handled gouge.
3. Reposition the log, allowing the notch
to seat. Scribe the full length of the underside of the log running
the blank leg of the dividers along the top of the lower log. Scribe
both sides of the log to yield the two lines which define the V-groove.
Continued on page 2
There is an
EXCELLENT book published on building log cabins. If you want to learn
how to build your own log cabin on a budget, then THIS is the
book for you:
"How To" Build This Log Cabin for $3,000 by
John McPherson
Click the link below
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